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Their constant presence is a strong deterrence to would-be poachers.The education programme set up by the Tiger Tops’ management team and the Nepal’s Parks and Wildlife Service engages successfully with surrounding villages whose combined efforts have turned the corner to conservation’s favour.A tigress with her two nearly full grown cubs prowled near the lodge one night. Active for nearly twenty hours a day, they communicate via almost imperceptible movements, use low range vibrations or send messages via frequencies inaudible to humans. Seeing a tiger run across a river is a thrilling sight, so I’m told by a well-pleased gent from the English Midlands when our elephants cross paths during a morning safari.There are few guests at Tiger Tops; with only twenty rooms it’s very private and exclusive. Oo-er, you should’ve seen it, quick as lightening it were.’ But my own view was blocked by the aptly named elephant grass.Finally, local people are beginning to understand that a live tiger is worth more than a dead one.The Bengal tigers of Chitwan National Park may yet survive the 21st century.Each morning I purloin a few apples and bananas from the breakfast buffet to share with my favourite elephant at Tiger Tops.

Their silent nocturnal perambulations cover many square kilometres of territory, ensuring that they remain practically invisible. [caption id="attachment_2147" align="alignnone" width="260"] Bengal tiger posing in Chitwan.[/caption] Elephants on the other hand, sleep for only a few hours and they never cease to entertain. Sleep is impossible when they’re in the mood to party, I discover after a long day doing the rounds of the park searching for tigers.

‘I can’t see it Dhani,’ I say, which has been my refrain since arrival. Tim Edwards, one of Tiger Tops’ owners tells me that Dhani is completely lost in a city so I feel slightly less inept.

The Edwards family began Tiger Tops more than forty years ago as a privately owned luxury camp set in a remote wilderness, its primary purpose being to educate visitors about the wonders of wild Nepal.

Our phanit, (the Nepalese word for mahout) settles Chan Chun Kali Jacks while the bear moves her adolescent cub to a safe distance.

We follow them until they disappear down a creek bank. ‘I’ve only seen two other bears this year.’ I beam with delight, my inner Mowgli is overjoyed. He’s the wonder guide, able to pinpoint a tiny scarlet minivet in the uppermost branch of a flowering kapok tree as if it were the size of a road-train on its way to Darwin.

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